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Cane e Gatto Will Have You Barking and Purring
By Kathy McCabe, Editor and Publisher, Dream of Italy, The Insider's Guide to Undiscovered Italy
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"I think this was the best meal of my life," Lorraine announces, putting
down her fork for the final time. This lawyer from Washington, D.C. seems
surprised yet sure of her statement. One by one, the rest of us think for
a moment (going over the Michelin-starred restaurants we have visited and
the pricey expensive account meals we have eaten) and agree -- definitely
one of the best, if not the best meal we had ever had.
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Just where do we experience this culinary nirvana? Antica Hostaria Cane e
Gatto, a small family run restaurant on a quiet street in Siena. The name,
which means 'dogs and cats' in English, was the old name of street where
two powerful Sienesi familes were said to have fought like, you guessed
it, dogs and cats.
The cozy art-filled dining room, which feels more like a private home than
a restaurant, has seats for just 20 patrons at glass-topped brass tables.
Owner Paolo Senni welcomes each female guest with an orchid before retreating
to the kitchen to whip up some magic with wife Sonia. What we came to
experience can only be called magic.
Their daughter, who is also the waitress, gives the women in our party
innovative metal hooks to hang our bags from the table. Pouring a
complimentary glass of Prosecco, she explains that there is a fixed
menu of five courses for 55€ per person (not including wine).
She will ask us after each course if we want the next one or if any of us
are too full and might, for example, want to skip the soup before the
pasta course.
The dream meal begins with a plate for each of us of antipasti: prosciutto
with melon; honey drizzled on Pecorino cheese; startling fresh mozzarella
and tomato; chicken liver pate; and finally, quiche with a cheese sauce.
"I think I'm going to like Tuscany" announces Al, the only male member of
our group, who just arrived that day.
A light, yet flavorful potato and leek soup comes next. The pasta course
is gnocci with pesto and tomato sauce. But forget everything you think you
know about gnocci. These particular pieces of pasta have a soft and light
consistency and simply melt like butter on your tongue. We savor each and
every one of them. "This food is prepared with love," remarks Bethanne.
We laugh and clink our wine glasses toasting the chefs.
The main course is a colorful plate of meat and veal interspersed with
asparagus and zucchini. We eat quietly. Although the conversation is flowing,
we don't want to distract our senses with much noise. The mix of beef,
spices and vegetables taste as good as they smell.
After a leisurely break - there is absolutely no reason to rush - dessert,
another mixed plate of colors, consistencies and flavors arrives.
The waitress pours a complimentary glass of Vin Santo, the Tuscan dessert
wine. We will each enjoy biscotti (which we will dip into the wine), a
luscious piece of tiramisu and a semifreddo (ice cream) made with fresh
strawberries.
Forget Mario Batali or Jacques Pepin, Paolo and Sonia are our culinary
superstars. We're the last customers to leave and Al insists we take
pictures with the chefs to mark this momentous meal. They happily oblige
as they are as nice as their food is spectacular.
The Details
Cane e Gatto
Via Pagliaresi, 6
Siena
(39) 0577 287545
Open for dinner only. Closed Thursday.
Reservations highly recommended.
More about Dream of Italy:
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